Abi Spring Cardigan

Abi Spring Cardigan

Which craft: Crochet

Ice Yarns Mirella Rainbow:
15% Mohair, 35% Acrylic, 40% Polyamide, 10% Metallic lurex
50gr = 165m.
Yarn thickness: 3 light worsted/DK.

Suggestion Needles / Hooks: 4 mm. US 6

Gague:

19 stitches and 14 rows in braided crochet pattern on 4mm hook = 10 x 10 cm

Techniques:

Foundation HDC
HDC into the 3rd loop
Puff stitch
Slip stitch into the front loop
Extended HDC
SC, HDC and DC

Sizes :

Ages 2 - 7 (plus open size instructions)

Finished measurements :

Size 4-5yo: Neck opening 20cm, length 35cm, chest circumference 64cm, arm length 30cm

Abbreviations :

FHDC: Foundation half-double crochet (there are many tutorials on YouTube and elsewhere that explain this technique)
HDCFLO: Half-double crochet into the front loop only
HDC3L: Half-double crochet into the 3rd loop (see note in pattern for instructions)
Puff stitch: Yarn over and insert your hook into the specified stitch/space. Yarn over again and pull up a long loop to DC height. Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch/space. Yarn over again and pull up a long loop four more times. Yarn over and pull through all 11 loops on your hook. Ch 1 to close the Puff Stitch.
EHDC: Extended half-double crochet (yarn over, insert into st, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through ONLY the first loop, yarn over again and pull through all remaining loops)
HDC: Half-double crochet
RS: Right side of work
WS: Wrong side of work
CH1: Chain 1
Sl. st: Slip stitch
Inc: Increase (work 2 into same stitch)

Project Note:

The cardigan is worked from the top down. At the end of each row is a chain 1. This is a turning chain only, and is not counted as a stitch. The cardigan is made using measurements rather than counting stitches, so it is fairly adjustable for different sizes than those shown (instructions in italics for open sizing).
Please read each entire row instruction before proceeding, as it explains the process rather than by the stitch.

Pattern :

NOTE:
It is very important to be clear about the structure of a half-double crochet (HDC) stitch, in order to understand these instructions easily. An HDC stitch consists of the 2 normal stitch loops at the top (the 2 form a V). The loop furthest away from you is known as the back loop, the one closest to you is the front loop. There is ALSO a slightly diagonal loop located at the back of the work, just under the 2 top loops. This is known as the 3rd loop. You’ll be working into each one of these 3 different loops at different times, so it’s good to be familiar with the stitch construction before you start. HDC3L is an HDC stitch that is only worked into the 3rd loop. See photos for additional clarity.

Pattern stitch 1: Braided crochet stitch (https://makeanddocrew.com/video-tutorial-braided-crochet-stitch-looks-like-knitting/):
1. (Wrong side of the work): Sl.st loosely into ONLY the middle loop of the 3 HDC loops, in every st. to the end. Ch1 & turn.
2. (Right side of the work): EHDC into the front loop only. Ch1 & turn.

Pattern stitch 2: Linen stitch
1. (SC, ch1, sk1) to the end. SC into the last st. Ch2 & turn.
2. (SC into ch.sp. ch1, sk1) to the end. SC into the last st. Ch2 & turn.

Puff stitch: Yarn over and insert your hook into the specified stitch/space. Yarn over again and pull up a long loop to DC height. Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch/space. Yarn over again and pull up a long loop four more times. Yarn over and pull through all 11 loops on your hook. Ch 1 to close the Puff Stitch.

YOKE:

Row 1: FHDC 66 (72) 78 stitches, ch1 & turn. (for any other size, FHDC any length to fit loosely around the neck)
[*TIP: If FHDC is beyond your reach, you can chain the number of stitches, and HDC across for row 1]
Row 2: HDCFLO in every st, increasing in every 4th st, to the end. Ch1 & turn.
Row 3: HDC in every st, increasing in every 5th st, to the end. Ch1 & turn.
Row 4: HDC3L in every st, increasing in every 6th st, to the end. Ch1 & turn.
Row 5: DC into 1st st (Puff stitch, close with ch. Ch1, sk 2) repeat to the end. DC into last st. Ch1 & turn (if you have an uneven number at the end, skip only 1 st after the last puff st)
Row 6: HDC into every st, HDC x 2 into every chain space. Ch1 & turn.
Row 7: HDC into every stitch, increasing in every 10th stitch. Ch1 & turn.
Row 8: HDC3L into every stitch. Ch1 & turn.
Row 9: HDC3L (working into the back of the work from the front) into every stitch. Ch1 & turn.

Marking the sleeves:
Fold the yoke double and lay it flat, with the open front facing you. It forms a half-moon. With 4 stitch markers, mark the places that would align with the tops of the armpits (see photo). The distance from the outer edge of the yoke to the marker is approximately 7 (10) 13 cm. (for open sizing, put the yoke on and mark at the tops of the armpits)

Row 10: HDC3L up to the 1st marker. Sl.st. into the marked st.
*FHDC 10 (15) 20 stitches (FHDC as many stitches as needed to run loosely under the arm from the front of the yoke to the back).
Sl.st. into the next marked st.
HDC3L into the same st.* and in every st. up to the next marker. Repeat *-*, and HDC3L to the end of the row. Ch1 & turn.
Row 11: HDC into every st. to the end, Ch1 & turn.

BODY:
Row 12 onwards: From here, continue in Pattern stitch 1: braided crochet stitch pattern for 7 (10) 13 cm (for open sizing, you can choose the length of this piece). It’s a 2-row repeat of the following:
1. (Wrong side of the work): Sl.st loosely into ONLY the middle loop of the 3 HDC loops, in every st. to the end. Ch1 & turn.
2. (Right side of the work): EHDC into the front loop only. Ch1 & turn.

OPTIONAL (only for size 4yo and upwards): From here, continue in Pattern stitch 2: linen stitch pattern for 0 (5) 15 cm. It’s a 2-row repeat of the following:

1. (SC, ch1, sk1) to the end. SC into the last st. Ch2 & turn.
2. (SC into ch.sp. ch1, sk1) to the end. SC into the last st. Ch2 & turn.

In any of the above options, end on a wrong side row.

Bottom edge (right side of the work):
Row 1: HDC into every st to the end, ch1 & turn.
Row 2: HDC3L into every st to the end, ch1 & turn.
Row 3: HDC into every st. to the end of the row. Chain 2 and don’t turn (you will now create an edge), but rather turn the corner and carry on up the inside front of the cardigan. Pick up stitches along the edge in HDC up to the next corner. Chain 2 and turn the corner to carry on along the neckline with HDC into every st. At the other end of the neckline, chain 2 and turn the corner again. Now carry on along the other front edge in HDC, picking up stitches to the end. Ch1 & TURN.
Row 4: HDC3L into every stitch, carrying on along the entire edge of the cardigan. Ch2 and turn the corners as in the previous row.
*Optional: If you want to create button holes, do this on the edge that would be the on the right side when worn: HDC3L into every st. but (sk.1,ch2) where you want the button holes.
For sizes 2-3 (4-5) 6-7 as follows:
HDC3L into the next 2 st, [(sk1, ch1) HDC3L into the next 5 (8) 12 st] repeat 5 times, HDC3L to the end. Ch1 & turn.
Last row: HDC into every st. (also 1 HDC into every buttonhole chain space). Ch2 at every corner and carry on around the corner, as before.
Break yarn and weave in ends.

SLEEVES (repeat on both sleeves):
Row 1: Join yarn in the bottom middle of the armhole with a sl.st. Ch1.
Working on the right side of the work, HDC in every stitch around.
Join with sl.st. to the 1st st. Ch1 & turn.
Row 2: HDC3L in every st. Join with sl.st. to the 1st st. Ch1 & turn.
Row 3 onwards for 10 (15) 20 cm : (for open sizing, you can choose the length of the arms) continue in Pattern stitch 1: braided crochet stitch pattern. It’s a 2-row repeat of the following:
1. (Wrong side of the work): Sl.st loosely into ONLY the middle loop of the 3 HDC loops, in every st. to the end. Join w sl.st. Ch1 & turn
2. (Right side of the work): EHDC into the front loop only. Join w sl.st. Ch1 & turn.

Sleeve edging:
Row 1 (ws): HDC3L in every st to the end. Join w sl.st. Ch1 & turn.
Row 2 (rs): DC into 1st st (Puff stitch, close with ch. Ch1, sk 2) repeat to the end. DC into last st. Join w sl.st. Ch1 & turn (if you have an uneven number at the end, skip only 1 st after the last puff st)
Row 3 (ws): HDC into every st, HDC x 1 into every chain space. Join w sl.st. Ch1 & turn.
Row 4 (rs): HDC3L (working into the back of the work from the front) into every st to the end. Join w sl.st. Ch1 & turn.
Row 5 (ws): HDC3L into every st, decreasing on every 5th st. to the end. Join w sl.st. Ch1 & turn.
Row 6 (rs): HDC3L (working into the back of the work from the front) into every st to the end. Join w sl.st. Ch1 & turn.
Row 7 (ws): HDC3L in every st to the end. Join w sl.st. Ch1 & turn.
Row 8 (rs): DC into every st to the end, join w sl.st, ch1 & turn.
Row 9 (ws): HDC3L in every st to the end. Join w sl.st. Break yarn and weave in ends.

Sweet rainbow cardigan with 3/4 sleeves and puff stitch yoke

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(c) Christel Riley Watts 2020, version 1.0

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